Holy Mole...It's a Christmas Safari!

Akwaaba! Since I am now getting desperate fan mail from my loyal blog-heads (okay, I'm exaggerating--not all three of my readers have e-mailed), demanding that I update the blog and write a tell-all exposé about our Christmas safari, I thought I better start typing. There has also been some concern that we were trampled by elephants, swallowed whole by hippos, or pummeled by swing-by bananas raining down from the canopy, and while any of these things was theoretically possible, we have lived--completely and utterly intact--to tell the tales of our holiday adventures in Ghana. While it was not our first stop, Mole National Park (pronounced mawl-ee) was certainly a highlight for our family and it was the ultimate destination, so it is where I will begin.

All told, a trip to Mole from Accra will set you back about ten to twelve hours each way. We actually stopped in Kumasi to break up the journey and take in some of the sights in and around that city, but I'll save that city for a later entry. If you should make the journey, please do not allow yourself to assume that the description people offer of the road on the final leg into Larabanga and the park gate (less than a hundred kms. and a solid two hour, trafficless drive) is an exaggeration. People from developed countries have not the experience nor the vocabulary to describe experiences, though those who know what lies beneath the snow and ice of a Winnipeg or Saskatchewan winter (ie: Potholes to the Centre of the Earth), or who have seen the bombed-out wartime roads seen from a jeep's eye view in say Mash or Saving Private Ryan might have an inkling. Please indulge me, so that I might conjure a demonstration for you to try at home.

1. On top of your washing machine, spread clay out, simulating a steady rippled effect. Let it dry.
2. Using a small hatchet or a crowbar, randomly punch gaping, one inch holes through the clay and through the top of your washer. Rest assured, you cannot overdo this.
3. Place a large, unbalanced load in your washing machine and wait until the spin cycle turns your machine into an angry, jerking bulk of terror.
4. Set a Matchbox (Hot Wheels will suffice) 1998 Chevy Venture mini-van on top of your washing machine.
5. Invite as many of your family members into the laundry room as will fit. The simulation will be more authentic if some are agitated, hungry, have to pee, or are missing Canada thus blaming you for their departure as well as for their nausea, while intermittently shouting "Make it stop," "I want off," "Who wants to see stupid elephants anyway," or gently weeping. Note that the smallest one among you (a.k.a. "Finn the Cherub") should feel free to continue sleeping and snuggling his blankie while dreaming of mummy jogging with him in the womb.
6. Welcome to hel...er, the road to Mole.

This picture represents a small part of the pay-off. This said, no one who describes the road will ever suggest that you should skip Mole, as it is unspoiled, inexpensive, and loaded with African wildlife. We arrived--shaken and stirred, our innards reconfigured--just in time to behold sunset across an African Savannah, while humming Hakuna Matata. Our chalet had its own little porch that overlooked the watering hole where we later hiked down into to see an elephant up close and a little too interested in us. During the first morning, the camp was swarmed by a large family of baboons who raided the garbage, and made a rather terrifying attempt to steal our children's breakfast cereal. Later, the children said "Why didn't you take a picture?" I explained that the hungriest baboon was roughly Brontë's size and twice Cohen's weight and their safety was more a concern than a photo op. Cohen is still disappointed that he will not be a famous YouTube video.

We went on a driving safari on the first morning and when we rounded the first corner, there were dozens of baboons, warthogs, and antelope so it set a wonderful tone for the rest of the journey. We did not see an elephant on the first safari and returned to the station feeling a little disappointed. It didn't last though as the Mole Motel has a swimming pool! By the early afternoon, an elephant had come to the watering hole and we hiked into the basin to watch it cool down. A few massive crocodiles slid into the water as we arrived and there were some grey monkeys running around beside us. When the elephant started to swim toward us and we all found ourselves not needing the zoom on our cameras, our guide suggested we leave.

We also saw bush and water buck, one other type of monkey, another species of antelope (Kobe, I think), dozens of bird species and even a Civet cat. There are some lions in the park, but they are nowhere near the camp, which is probably a good thing. Our guide drove with us (again, in our van...Go Chevy Venture!) and directed us for nearly two hours and the charge for his services was less than 5 Ghana cedis. The chalet, with a huge bed, fridge, AC, private bath and shower, and breakfast included was a mere 50 Ghana cedis! This probably makes it one of the least expensive safaris in Africa, and it is certainly the safest!

We woke up on Christmas morning and gathered around the impromptu "Christmas lamp" to discover that Santa had found us all the way in northern Ghana. The kids were definitely impressed and the stockings contained a few comforts of home such as Oreos, and a few West African surprises as well. Under the tree, Santa left Cohen some carved elephants, Brontë a hand-made leather and wood jewelry box, Materia a Dora the Explorer backpack, and Finn a set of rubber reptiles. Everyone got a Christmas "African animal" ornament from Global Mamas NGO, made from recycled glass beads. While the under-the-tree haul was decidedly thinner than a typical Christmas, I don't think anyone was disappointed--especially after we opened the curtains to see the sun breaking over Africa.