Waterfalls, Waterfalls, Everywhere

Our most recent weekend driveabout took us from the first cocoa plantation (mmm, cocoa...separate post to come) to some spectacular rainforest waterfalls in the Akuapem Hills, outside of Accra, and north of Aburi. The first sets of falls, Asenema Waterfall, was lesser known and a little tricky to find, especially if you were to miss the roadside sign (which thankfully, we didn't). The posting at the trailhead said that we needed to call O.B. in the village in order to get permission, so we did. To be honest, I halfway considered not calling as it felt like a prime opportunity to pay far more than was reasonable for entrance to the falls. I was both surprised and embarrassed when the guide (son to the man who owns the land surrounding the falls) expected nothing from us. Once again I have underestimated the goodness of people...ugh!

The hike in to the falls was not too difficult and it afforded us the sounds and sights of a lively little stream fed by the falls. There is very good flow at this time of year, as it is the rainy season, which is why we wanted to make this trip before the dry season sets in. The man who guided us (I'm still not sure is O.B. was his name or if that was his title) explained that his family is trying to develop the site to make it more of a tourist attraction. While this would undoubtedly be very good for his family and for the village, the eco-tourist in me shuddered when he suggested that they want to alter the base of the falls to create a swimming pool for visitors. Unfortunately, I cannot argue against his thinking that this would probably bring more people, even if we would not likely be among them!

From there, we decided we had enough time to dash up to the better-known and highly recommended Boti Falls. This site is more developed, but it is so remote that it maintains a degree of rural charm. It has apparently been sold to a developer of some sort, so time will tell if it improves or not. There are 250 steps down to the base of the falls, and on the way down there are several signs warning visitors not to swim. This makes more sense when you realize that the falls open to large, shaded, sandy beach and the water appears both shallow and calm. The fear may stem from the fact that we have met very few swimmers in Ghana and we frequently see people thrashing about in the pools we visit. There was a young European couple wet and on the way up as we walked down, so unless there were more than two of them swimming, it might be safe. The big concern is usually that the water may contain bilharzia, a water born, disease-bearing parasite found in much of the fresh water in Ghana. Needless to say, we did not go for a swim.

A guide was not really necessary, but they are always "included" (for a small "dash" or tip) when people see our smiling white faces. Actually, I can't complain because the going "dash" rate is generally 50 pesewas to 1 cedi and they often end up carrying one of the children! Our faithful companion for this trek told us the story of how the falls were named. Apparently a white man asked where the falls originated, and the local man gave him the obvious and literal answer: the ledge up there. The man heard only the word "Boti" and thus the falls were named. As a citizen of "Kanata" I had to chuckle and share my own country's naming story, and we all had a good laugh at the white man's folly (Hey! Turnabout's fair play...isn't it?!). There is also a local legend attached to the falls that says one is a man and one is a woman, and while they will come very close together in the rainy season, they will never touch. Few memories will touch the ones that are being afforded our family by the beauty of Africa.