White Sands...Pun Intended

The first thing that we noticed when we were welcomed through the security gate at White Sands Resort (for an exorbitant fee!) were the Ghanaians in "safari" security gear, complete with pith helmets and high knee socks, hiking boots and khaki wear. The second thing: Gee, there an awful lot of white people here. Hence the pun in the title. I could not help but be reminded of American segregation prior to the civil rights movement or apartheid in South Africa as I stood at the middle point between the rugged and lively fishing village of Gomoa Fetteh, and the pristine tranquility and grass umbrellas of the White Sands Beach Resort. On the short boat ride from the main resort to the beach resort, located on an estuary, there was talk of a peaceful coexistance between the resort and the village, but I don't think this tells the whole story.

Now, the pictures we took will speak for themselves in suggesting that this is one of the most stunning locations along this or any other coast, but it is just the sort of elitist, posh, wealthy indulgence that makes me feel guilty as well as broke. We had tried on one other occasion to come to White Sands, but we were told at the gate that it would be $25 (USD!) per person to attend. Yes, that is a whopping $150.00 for our family to access the beach through their resort! This time, we arrived with friends who thought they were allowed to bring a family in with them. On this day (rules change on a pretty regular basis in Ghana), it turned out that they were not allowed to bring a family in, but we could pay a special reduced rate of $75. Having made the trip, and as we were with friends, we paid, albeit grudgingly. Apparently, several families can get together and buy a corporate membership for a couple thousand dollars and then they can come for free all year. As the resort is quite close to Accra and the beach is exceptional, this is probably a pretty good value even if you were to come once or twice a month.

Lunch was a quintessentially Ghanaian adventure as the restaurant and beach were especially busy and there had been a large event the night before that had depleted resources. We ordered pizza, which was very pricey, but good, and it arrived just short of two hours after I ordered it and about an hour after everyone else's food had arrived. The people we were with were very kind in that they shared their meals around until ours arrived. There were eleven children and six adults to begin the meal, and with my pizza arriving so late, I was the last one left alone at a table for seventeen. In Ghana so long as there is an explanation for lateness (the national pastime), there is no problem, so we received no discount and no compensation. While you are guaranteed access to a fine stretch of paradise at White Sands, customer service is optional!

Perhaps the best thing about White Sands is that the ocean here is another spot where things are less dangerous and parents do not have to be on constant "baywatch" (Sorry, I couldn't resist the slow motion image of me that this would conjure up...eat your heart out Hasselhoff!). The tide goes out a good long way so when we were there, the amount of beach front was massive and there was loads of space to run. Also, the village, with its fishing boats and busy waterfront make for a nice little walk, though it seemed to me my walk into their midst was more the exception than the rule and I stopped before I interrupted their football match on the sand. I also turned back because I felt I was intruding and there's no way turnabout would have been fair play if they had tried to invade White Sands.

Cuyler was pretty sleepy after a day of beachcombing and wave dodging, so while the gang went to swim in the pool for the last hour, he slept in my arms for an hour. I certainly couldn't complain about the view or the company! He will soon be two and I'm sure for him, Ghana will exist only in pictures and stories for him, rather than in memories.