Kumasi: The Garden City

Okay, so I don’t think it would have occurred to me to dub Ghana’s second largest metropolis with the tag of “garden city” but relatively speaking, it is probably worthy of the title. Accra’s lesser known inland cousin is in the heart of the traditional Ashanti kingdom, seat of the most historically powerful people of Ghana, and it did have more open and green space than we had previously seen in an urban setting. Between the streets that seemed better planned for traffic flow (again, relatively speaking given our current context), the park and walkways at the cultural centre and museum, and the vast urban greenspace at the Kumasi Zoological Gardens, we started to wonder how our lives would be different if we lived in Kumasi. In a strange way it reminded us more of a smaller Canadian city (still relative!) which was especially ironic since there is far less commercialization here than in Accra.

As prices and investment steadily climb in Accra, Kumasi is attracting more attention not only for real estate development, but also for its market potential. Big hotels and big business are increasingly on the scene in this bustling market town. It is, however, still best known for the rich history of the Ashante people and the presence of a good deal of art. We glimpsed both aspects of the region at the National Cultural Centre in the heart of Kumasi. We bought a few pieces from the art market in the centre and the prices were significantly lower than anywhere we have bought in Ghana. One of the most common pieces from the region is the fertility idol that was traditionally given to women who were having trouble getting pregnant. The grounds at the Cultural Centre are well kept and you can visit the shops of individual artists along the roadways and paths. The kids enjoyed playing in the fountain and running around in the open spaces, the sort of thing we took for granted in Canada (and in our back yard in Steinbach, for that matter!).

Next to the Cultural Centre is the rather dilapidated Kumasi Zoo. It boasts a diverse collection of African animals and the trees above the zoo are home to thousands of fruit bats (Carmilla was thrilled). The enclosed habitats are smaller than any you might find in North America (no real surprise here) and the animals gave a general impression of ill health. This said, life for most animals outside the zoo is not usually much better, as conservation and environmental citizenship are but poor players next to the need for food and the unfortunate business of poaching. We saw lions, chimpanzees, hyenas, giant tortoises, monitor lizards, a viper, a cobra, baboons, and several other species at the zoo and as former members of a couple of prairie zoological societies, it was enjoyed by all, despite the state of the zoo. Besides, it could have been worse, as in the case of the Accra Zoo that was bulldozed to make way for the gaudy opulence of the Presidential Palace and its massive private grounds!

We stayed at two hotels—a cheaper one the first night that had no running water (the girls at the hotel hauled several pails of water to us on the third floor—source unknown!), and a nicer one on the second night. I will mention the second, the Royal Basin Resort as it was a very friendly little hotel just outside the city that had lots of amenities. They put us in two adjoining rooms for 100 cedis and that included a decent little breakfast and wireless internet, which was unexpected and welcome! The attendants also washed our van overnight! Strangely enough, the highlight of our trip was an outstanding Indian meal that we had in the city at Moti Mahal. It may be that it has been some time since we have supped on butter chicken, korma and samosa with mango chutney, but we claimed that it was the best Indian meal we have ever had. Since we come from Winnipeg, home to a sinfully delicious array of authentic East Indian cuisine, this is not a conclusion we draw lightly.

All in all, Kumasi made for a very nice little stop along the way to points north, but it would also work as a retreat from the urban insanity that is Accra. There are a few animal sanctuaries, waterfalls and forest preserves close to the city (more to come), and a drive or walk through the city’s market is like swimming in a beautiful sea of people. We will undoubtedly return.