Akwaaba! Some of the oldest structures in Ghana are reputed to be the mud and stick mosques. Many of these religious buildings are found in the north of the country, where the greatest concentration of Muslims resides. Most of the remaining structures are still in use to varying degrees, and some are dated as far back as the thirteenth century. Though these dates are often disputed (some even suggest they should be earlier), one cannot deny their significance and architectural pedigree, particularly in the midst of villages that have few structures that are built to last. It is rarely possible to see the mosques from the roadside, and they are usually part of village tours, though there are degrees of legitimacy to these operations and it is possible to be left feeling that the hassle is not worth it. The cost is generally a small donation to the mosque's Imam and I wouldn't be surprised (based in part on the modest clothing and dwellings of the Imam's I met) if all of the money donated goes towards restoration and maintenance. There can be an extra charge for taking pictures, and in some cases no photography is allowed.
The small village of Larabanga, near Mole National Park, is best known for its mud-and-stick mosque which is believed to be the oldest in West Africa. Again, it is difficult to say for sure how old it is, though there is some agreement around a date in the fifteenth century. It is also home to a copy of the Qur'an that is said to be as old as the mosque! The mosque is a common site on web pages, brochures and in guide books, and it is probably the most famous building Ghana, at least from an outsider's perspective. We were toured around the village by a guide who was recommended by Moses, our Mognori village host. If I recall, I donated a few cedis to the Imam and a couple more to our guide, who toured us through the village and answered questions about village life. He left us with the impression that money given to him goes to community projects but one can never be sure.
These last two pictures were taken in Wa, where there are two mud-and-stick mosques in close proximity to one another. As you can see they are quite similar to Larabanga, with the main difference being that people are allowed into the mosque. In fact, I was encouraged to tunnel my way up to the roof, using a crude ladder pole, where I could see out over Wa. There were dozens of kids following me, laughing as I risked getting my hippo-sized arse stuck in a hole that seemed to be made for small goats (as evidenced by the number of goats on the roof and the number of turds I put my hand in on the way up). The newer and larger mosque can be seen in the distance. Although there are a number of mosques in Accra (none nearly as old), we did not know very much about the Islamic faith aside from the various (mostly derogatory) images offered to us via media. While it is said that the Muslims of Ghana are quite liberal in their views and practices, what struck us was how friendly and welcoming they were--sort of like almost every other Ghanaian we have met. I also found it a bit surprising that not only do Muslims and Christians co-exist, but they do so peacefully. There is a lesson here.
Akwaaba! Some of the oldest structures in Ghana are reputed to be the mud and stick mosques. Many of these religious buildings are found in the north of the country, where the greatest concentration of Muslims resides. Most of the remaining structures are still in use to varying degrees, and some are dated as far back as the thirteenth century. Though these dates are often disputed (some even suggest they should be earlier), one cannot deny their significance and architectural pedigree, particularly in the midst of villages that have few structures that are built to last. It is rarely possible to see the mosques from the roadside, and they are usually part of village tours, though there are degrees of legitimacy to these operations and it is possible to be left feeling that the hassle is not worth it. The cost is generally a small donation to the mosque's Imam and I wouldn't be surprised (based in part on the modest clothing and dwellings of the Imam's I met) if all of the money donated goes towards restoration and maintenance. There can be an extra charge for taking pictures, and in some cases no photography is allowed.
This village runs as an eco-tourism project and when we arrived we were greeted by a young man who was to be our host and tour guide. He is one of the young people who--because of the profits from kente--was able to go to senior secondary school outside of the village, and as a result he has one of the more important jobs in the community. He explained the process as he toured us around and we met several of the young weavers. It was a Saturday morning so all of the looms were humming. Each symbol or pattern has traditional significance and there seemed an infinite number of patterns. Tools and looms were all hand carved and the speed with which the weavers worked, while maintaining intricate, repeating patterns was truly remarkable. They only every weave stretches of kente that are about four inches wide, so larger pieces of cloth are stitched together for clothing and household use.
Basically, each village family has as many looms as it can sustain and the covered workshops are filled with family members. We were obviously surprised to learn (okay, not that surprised) that children start in the family business at just seven years old. At that age they begin doing small supportive tasks like hauling and spooling thread, and watching their older siblings in a sort of an apprenticeship. They do, thankfully, still go to school full time and I expect that most of them flock to class as the weaving looks to be quite tedious. As Bronte is eight, I think she most felt the impact of seeing these children working at her age, instead of spending free time playing or (a-hem) travelling around Ghana with her family. It would be easy for us to be critical or horrified, but it is a family business like any other and I was immediately put in mind of the family farm, where child labour is both necessary and character-building.
I have seen kente cloth in shops around not only Accra, but also in many other places. I'm certain I've seen it in the Forks, or other such markets in Canada. Until now I really never understood its true significance. It is yet another possibility for those who wish to spend their money mindfully, with sustainable intention. As I have often said to students, every dollar counts when it comes to the future and well-being of the planet. To be honest, I have no idea what we will do with the stunning, but impractical lengths of colour we purchased, but I suspect they've already done their most important work whether they end up on a wall or not. This message was brought to you by Tafi Abuipe Kente-Weaving Village. They thank you for your support! 
The drive to Wli took several hours (including several stops and shops) and took us through the beautiful hills of the Volta Region. We stayed at a decent hotel in Hohoe, and made our way to the falls in the morning. The trek into the falls took about forty-five minutes in (uphill) and more like thirty minutes out (downhill and we were hungry). The hike in reminded us of many we had taken on Vancouver Island, and while the pathway steadily climbs, it is relatively cool, breezy, and clean. We crossed nine bridges along the ample footpath on the way up. The counting kept Materia more than amused while Finn kept himself and his parents thoroughly occupied by threatening to fall into the water through or off of those rather dodgily constructed bridges.
We deliberately tried to get to the falls before the rainy season sets in as the power and the spray of the falls makes it more difficult to hike in or even get close to the falls. We did not brave the popular hike to the upper falls as it is much more demanding and we were not up for carrying the two little ones the distance. Apparently there is also a pool at the top that is beautiful for swimming. The area at the base of the falls was one of the first where we actually imagined ourselves having a picnic and we were invited to join a Ghanaian family that had hauled in lunch with them. The kids played in the shallows at the base of the falls and explored the rocky pathways leading to the mountain wall, and we all enjoyed the fresh, misty spray from the falls. This is one of Ghana's most popular tourist destinations, and it is pretty obvious as you drive through the village responsible and it is easy to see why! 
We have a tendency to steer clear of the larger markets that have absolutely everything in them as they are noisy, dirty, congested and chaotic, especially with four kids in tow. Carmilla went to Makola market, which covers a huge area in Accra, and she found it pretty overwhelming. At the time, we still had Douglas the driver, who would translate the comments and complaints of those nearby. Most memorably, it started to drizzle while Carmilla was moving through the market (Finn in his stroller) and the women were shouting insults at her for being a wicked woman who kept her children in the rain. It put her off Makola for a while. I have been to the Tetteh Quarshie art market several times and the concentration of clothing, fabric, carvings, jewelry and painting is rather remarkable and the sellers are not too invasive or aggressive.
Most of pictures in this entry were taken at the weekend Spintex market, which is predominantly made up of household goods, meat and produce, and second hand clothing. We are something of a novelty here as obruni are rare at this market, and many people did not want their pictures taken (I usually ask). People will pick the kids up or touch their hair, and everyone is generally very friendly. The market is filled with women and their children, and has a real sense of community and order to it, despite the overriding aura of chaos. If you can get over the surroundings, the market can be a very effective means for eating cheaply and locally. The quality is generally very good, especially since a lot of produce has a season that lasts for most or all of the year. Pineapple, for example, is always in season and it usually costs 1 cedi (about a dollar) for a couple of pineapples. Juice is cheap locally, and Fan ice cream and yoghurt are common, so we often make the best-tasting, least expensive smoothies we've ever had. Tomatoes are very common and are definitely a staple food in Ghana, with several producers of tomato-based goods right here in Ghana. 
Obviously we wash everything thoroughly (there is little evidence of food handling or personal hygiene, but this is a developing nation and the average Ghanaian seems to have a higher tolerance for germs than we do) and we stay away from some items such as the open air, non-refrigerated meat that looks a bit suspect to our Western eyes. Now that we have employed a woman, Diana, to help around the house, we are pretty specific about what she should buy from the market and what we will buy from the grocery store. Of course when she buys things at the market for us, the prices are even lower and since hiring her, our grocery bill has dropped significantly. Combine this with the fact that we eat out less often because she can cook most of the Ghanaian dishes--red-red and fried plantain, palava sauce, tomato or egg or groundnut stew, chicken and jollof rice, etc.--that we would be likely to buy in a restaurant, and we are actually wealthier for having hired her. (As we spend so much time in traffic, the value of coming home to a clean house and a hot meal is also immeasurable!)
Not unlike Canada, each region of Ghana is known for different produce and goods so anytime we travel we will pass buy hundreds of almost-identical market stalls. If we pull over, we quickly get swarmed by people selling the same items, for the same price, but I'm sure that spending our money at these roadside stalls is better for the local producers and growers, and I know it's better for the environment. We are planning a couple of specific trips before the end of the year and intend to buy beads, baskets and pottery in the market of the regions that are known for them. To market, to market, to buy a... 
Eco-tourism is on the rise in Ghana, and until we went to Mognori eco-village, near Mole National Park, I'm not sure we knew exactly what it was. It is basically an approach to tourism that uses funds raised to directly sustain the communities in which it is based (at least in Ghana). In this instance there are a few key people who oversee guided tours of a working village. This is not one of those Simpsons-like set-ups whereby the locals dress up for tourists, perform, and then go back to the suburbs, this offers a real glimpse of village life in West Africa. It is possible to arrange for home stays in family homes in the village, but we opted for the daytime tour, later returning for the drum and dance demonstration.
Our guide in Mognori was a young man named Moses, who is assisting in the development of the project in the region. He is an enterprising and highly knowledgeable village man who has gone out into the world to get his education and now feels a strong need to give back to his region. His father worked at Mole, so he got a good education at the park school and is now turning his learning into a brighter future for the surrounding communities. He does guided river treks, hikes, and the tour through Mognori. He ended up joining us in Larabanga, where we went to see an ancient mud and stick mosque, because people there can be fairly aggressive in their approach to tourists and he wanted us to be treated fairly. When we departed and mentioned we were going to Wa to see the hippos, he gave us the number of a friend that was a guide in that area, whom he felt we could trust. You get a sense that he takes his work seriously, and he understands the importance of word of mouth, especially amongst "obruni" tourists.
The average family home in Mognori consists of a mud-walled compound that has a few buildings and an open courtyard. In the open area, the fire will be made, and most of the cooking, cleaning and washing happens. Carmilla and I didn't accept an offer to go inside the bedrooms and I'm not sure if this was because we were shy, or because we didn't want to intrude--or a bit of both. We learned that the intricate etched designs in the mud walls were actually used as calculators and calendars, reminiscent of the Metis sash.
Families are big, even though infant mortality is very high. It is not uncommon for a woman to give birth twice as many times as she has children. Combine this with the fact that there is still a great deal of "traditional" medicine and superstition, along with occasional food shortages and diseases such as malaria, and you begin to appreciate why death is such a significant and regular part of everyday life. Although it is in rapid decline, men can have as many wives and children as they can feed. I am reminded here of Things Fall Apart as relative wealth is determined by a person's crops and harvest, stored in silos like the one pictured above. (I hope this hasn't lit any light bulbs over the heads of all our male friends from rural Saskatchewan! Of course they would be quick to argue that with the state of agriculture, they can hardly afford what they've got!)
On hot nights, families will literally take to the roof and sleep on top of their homes. At the end of the tour we were invited up via a notched-log ladder. We climbed up and had a good look around, much to the delight of the village children. There was a large group of them that followed at a respectful distance (I think they are instructed to do so), giggling every time we did something. Our children, especially Finn, are something of a novelty in more remote areas and mothers will often bring out their youngest children to show them ours. It is not uncommon for first-timers to break into tears at the sight of us!
Later that night, we came back to the village with another small group (and saw a civet cat run across the road on the way!) to see a drum and dance performance at dusk. It was obvious that the young people participating had just returned from a day's work, especially the men who were all but absent during the day tour. We gathered in front of the chief's house (he is pictured above with Bronte and Materia as he loves having his picture taken) and as the sun went down the music grew stronger, signalling to surrounding communities that a celebration was about to begin. There were a couple of long dances that had very distinct roles and steps for the men and the women. We were all completely mesmerized by the experience, though Carmilla and I admitted to feeling a little uncomfortable about this being staged for our entertainment and our cameras. 
It would be somewhat easy to argue that, relatively speaking, Mognori is expensive by comparison with some of the other things we've seen and done in Ghana. But, in terms of sustainable development, you can see every dollar spent at work in small but important improvements made to water, to agricultural production, and to the community school. And while school is "free" in Ghana, most poor families in rural areas cannot afford to send their children and lose the labour and income, so some of the money raised goes to offset this. You could also argue that perspective is priceless and its gift will be enduring in the lives of our own children. Actually, I think we got a pretty deal, all things considered.
