Larabanga and Beyond!

Akwaaba! Some of the oldest structures in Ghana are reputed to be the mud and stick mosques. Many of these religious buildings are found in the north of the country, where the greatest concentration of Muslims resides. Most of the remaining structures are still in use to varying degrees, and some are dated as far back as the thirteenth century. Though these dates are often disputed (some even suggest they should be earlier), one cannot deny their significance and architectural pedigree, particularly in the midst of villages that have few structures that are built to last. It is rarely possible to see the mosques from the roadside, and they are usually part of village tours, though there are degrees of legitimacy to these operations and it is possible to be left feeling that the hassle is not worth it. The cost is generally a small donation to the mosque's Imam and I wouldn't be surprised (based in part on the modest clothing and dwellings of the Imam's I met) if all of the money donated goes towards restoration and maintenance. There can be an extra charge for taking pictures, and in some cases no photography is allowed.

The small village of Larabanga, near Mole National Park, is best known for its mud-and-stick mosque which is believed to be the oldest in West Africa. Again, it is difficult to say for sure how old it is, though there is some agreement around a date in the fifteenth century. It is also home to a copy of the Qur'an that is said to be as old as the mosque! The mosque is a common site on web pages, brochures and in guide books, and it is probably the most famous building Ghana, at least from an outsider's perspective. We were toured around the village by a guide who was recommended by Moses, our Mognori village host. If I recall, I donated a few cedis to the Imam and a couple more to our guide, who toured us through the village and answered questions about village life. He left us with the impression that money given to him goes to community projects but one can never be sure.

These last two pictures were taken in Wa, where there are two mud-and-stick mosques in close proximity to one another. As you can see they are quite similar to Larabanga, with the main difference being that people are allowed into the mosque. In fact, I was encouraged to tunnel my way up to the roof, using a crude ladder pole, where I could see out over Wa. There were dozens of kids following me, laughing as I risked getting my hippo-sized arse stuck in a hole that seemed to be made for small goats (as evidenced by the number of goats on the roof and the number of turds I put my hand in on the way up). The newer and larger mosque can be seen in the distance. Although there are a number of mosques in Accra (none nearly as old), we did not know very much about the Islamic faith aside from the various (mostly derogatory) images offered to us via media. While it is said that the Muslims of Ghana are quite liberal in their views and practices, what struck us was how friendly and welcoming they were--sort of like almost every other Ghanaian we have met. I also found it a bit surprising that not only do Muslims and Christians co-exist, but they do so peacefully. There is a lesson here.