Akwaaba! I truly hope that our repetitive accounts of an assortment of Ghana's finest and utterly deserted beaches and resorts do not become mundane or tiresome for the one or two readers who may have hung on to this point. Of course, these spots are neither mundane nor tiresome for us, so we'll just carry on sunning, frolicking and snapping shots, if it's all the same to you! This latest batch of family photos was captured at Till's Beach Hotel at Gomoa Fetteh, west of Accra, in case you're puting push pins in your map of Ghana. It is worth noting bluntly and right out front, that this was by far the cleanest and most accessible stretch of beach we have seen to date in Ghana.
Our latest discovery happened (you may be delighted to hear at this point) after being shunned at a rather posh resort called White Sands. We drove for about an hour and a half (approx. 89 minutes of which was spent getting out of Accra) to be told in an almost-sympathetic tone that the resort was for members only. Their version of pity amounted to a consolation offer of 25 Ghana Cedis a head (yes, that's a whopping $150.00 Canadian!), so we almost-gracefully declined and zipped around the corner, quite literally, to Till's. We were not to be disappointed on this day as our plans broke in the most extraordinary way.
They did not charge us for entry, but that may be because we ate at the restaurant, which was pretty darn good and had children's meals. The service was excellent all round and the view from the restaurant (pictured above) was stunning. There is mini-golf, life size chess (Clear Lake style!) and outdoor ping pong and checkers. They were generally kid-friendly and we'll likely return soon as the ocean was manageable, even with the kids. The picture of Cohen and Bronte does capture some of the force of the ocean in these parts and the older two are pretty aware of the danger. This may have something to do with our hyperbolic attempts to instill terror into their swimmer's hearts. Materia generally plays it safe, but the following picture will offer a glimpse at the growing concern that is Cuyler "Superpower" Land as he breaks for the wake. As soon as each wave knocked him squarely on his "little swimmer" diaper, he bounced back up, giggling like a drunken sailor with a crush, ready for the next hit. Carmilla and I took turns grabbing him by the pants and hoisting him to his feet, at once faithful pub bouncers for our little saltwater swilling ruffian.
I said to Carmilla that it was the first place I could imagine us (affording to) spend a week at. We halfway considered a spontaneous overnight but that is a bit tricky with the clan in tow and while the rooms were both reasonably priced and stylishly appointed (each with a private balcony opening to a view of the ocean), we headed back to Accra to "enjoy" the traffic. While you may resent us for gloating, please at least give us credit for sharing this location--the temptation to keep it all to ourselves was difficult to resist. Now you know!
Akwaaba! It is often said that sometimes the very best things come to us when we aren’t looking. Beyin Beach Resort is one such example of this, as all we were really looking for when we found it was a half decent lunch in a remote area of Ghana; what we found was an idyllic wedge of seaside heaven that will undoubtedly lead the list of favourite memories had under the Ghanaian sun. The resort’s owners, a couple with two children of their own (who became fast friends with our children over our first extended lunch!) have perfectly captured the easygoing, family-friendly ambiance that we crave when we travel. There was enough space not only for our children, but also for our noise, so that those with a more intimate, leisurely retreat in mind were not quietly muttering invectives every time our children squealed past (or so I'd like to believe)! 
The beach is obviously the main attraction at the resort, and I cannot overstate how many things it has going for it. It is likely the most accessible bit of ocean in Ghana, as there is some sort of sand shelf that serves as a buffer for waves and undertow that drown more than a few people at other beaches every year. The resort is a good distance from the two nearest villages on either side, and both made for good barefoot trek destinations along the shore. The nearest village is also home to Fort Appolonia, another historic slave trade building that is in very good condition, which we were able to tour the inside of. We collected many unique shells, including dozens of sand dollars (we hadn’t found these elsewhere so the kids were especially enthusiastic about these) and the resort has a pretty impressive collection of their own that includes whale vertebrae! While we were too late for the nesting of sea turtles that happens in the area, we still managed to learn quite a lot as it is soon hatching time and the resort is also a dedicated conservation point for the turtles. 
We stayed in one of the two cabana-style, thatched roof chalets, and paid a mere 70 Ghana cedis a night for both of the adjoining rooms in the unit. Each of the rooms had a four poster bed so huge that it comfortably slept our three oldest (no small accomplishment having Cohen and Bronte comfortably co-habitate!). The whole front wall of the room opened up via shuttered doors, to a small, private porch and a long view of the ocean. While our first night was a vomit-filled tribute to parenthood and our second a fanless dedication to the Electricity Company of Ghana, we still managed to survive thanks to ample space, comfortable digs, and generous breezes from the ocean.
As I originally suggested, we went there looking or a good meal some weeks ago when at the nearby stilt village of Nzulezo and were quickly taken with the simple, homey traveller’s retreat that was nestled behind the fence adjacent to tourism office. They had us at "Akwaaba!" and we settled into the open air restaurant for a hearty meal. As we were already booked into LouMoon (a gem in its own right, though in a much higher price bracket), we couldn't stop in longer, but we booked a couple of nights for the next bank holiday weekend. Needless to say, the menu is excellent as we not only managed to feed our gang of six for forty-eight hours, but we also did so with variety and food group representation! It didn't hurt that we all became seriously addicted to fresh-squeezed orange juice made from the locally grown, sinfully sweet fruit. My new adage is "Everything's better with garlic mayo (except my heart and my breath)!" We honestly did not manage to try everything on the menu that we wanted to and this is a tremendous accomplishment for any restaurant in Ghana!
The resort has beach volleyball, a separate playhouse and sandbox for the kids (next to the restaurant), DVD players and movies to rent, a well-stocked lending library, a couple of common areas for conversations, reading or board games (they have several to borrow), and there are also more rustic cottages for backpackers and NGO workers that run considerably less, but still have access to hot showers! If you are traveling in the area, you should stay at Beyin Beach Resort. If you are visiting the stilt village, you should eat there. If you have the luxury of time on your hands, you should book an extended stay and spend your hours imaging a life there (not unlike, I'm sure, the owners themselves did once upon a time). If it's your birthday while your there, like it was mine, call ahead and they might just bake you a cake and save you a hammock on the beach! 
The lodge and dwellings were constructed by a European designer who has since moved on to other projects, leaving it to be managed by our ever-competent and attentive host, Timo. The open-air, world-inspired restaurant is the gathering place and centerpiece for what is an all-round perfectly planned paradise for the backpacker-made-good. We stayed in a hillside bungalow and have already booked to return, next time moving up in the world to a Bayside Suite that has an uninterrupted view of LouMoon's private bay. The prices are reasonable, given what is on offer, but there is an overall commitment to simplicity and conservation that is admirable and appealing, especially in Ghana. While this might turn the average tourist off, it is certainly a traveller's delight. The one big drawback for us was that self-catering was discouraged (and even forbidden) and it really added up with four children tallying "world restaurant" bills at every meal. We actually avoided the resort at lunch (breakfast was included and conspicuously ordinary, given the quality of the meals we paid for!) and just came for supper, usually accompanied by a staggering sunset across the sea.
As there are only about ten rooms in total at LouMoon, there is no such thing as busy, and there is always plenty to do. There is a full-sized volleyball court (on average, we're still a little small for such pursuits) and other outdoor games, and the sea kayaks were very popular with our clan. It was impossible to tire of playing in the sand, swimming, snorkeling, and beach combing, but we may have gone through a gallon or two of sunscreen as the Ghanian sun is force to be respected. The kids managed to complete various castles and sand sculptures while there, and depending on the weather and tides, the bay makes for a reasonably safe beach. We did, however, break the beach time up by managing a couple of day trips to the (relatively) nearby stilt village and an impressive fort in Axim (blogs to follow).
It would be difficult to make it as far as Axim and LouMoon, from Accra, for an overnight, but even two nights offers up one full day of heaven. We checked out other options in the area and are planning to visit Beyin Beach Resort for a couple of nights in the near future as well, having discovered it. We discovered it when registering at the guide station for Nzulezo and the Amansuri Wetlands. We had a memorable, inexpensive, kid-friendly lunch, something of a rarity in Ghana. It is relatively new and hasn't really "made" the Bradt guide as yet, but it should for the next edition! We'll let you know more about it after our stay!
Okay, so I've had a few people (mostly those family-types) demand more of those indulgent family snapshots, particularly of the kids, so I thought I'd post a few random pics. Of course, I'm perfectly happy to do so because I like my children and I like looking at them...they're neat! Most of these were taken at or near Till's, not too far from Accra. A couple of them feature the children of some friends of ours, who shall remain nameless, as I don't have their permission to publish. Enjoy!
We spend the first hour or so of any trip simply getting out of Accra, and this trip was no exception, taking more than an hour and a half to escape the city. One or two wrong turns, some good ol' family tension, more than a half a dozen hours on the road, and we pulled into the Busua Beach Resort, which was to be the reward for our perseverance. While one does not have to stay at the resort to enjoy the beach, we could not resist the urge to enjoy all of the ammenities of an ocean-front suite with a view of the ocean. For a three-room suite (living room, bedroom, and small kitchen), it cost us a mere 125 Ghana cedis and this included a full English-African oceanside breakfast, use of the pools, playgrounds, and tennis courts, and access to one of the most incredible stretches of beach we've laid our toes and eyes on.
Most resorts seem to make a good deal of their money in the restaurant and in the bar, and despite the fact that the food was quite good, this location was no exception to the rule. It is not generally uncommon at such locations for us to pay more 5 Ghana cedis for potato fries or fried rice, which is pretty steep by any standard, and outright theft by Ghanaian standards! Having noted this, there was a seaside barbecue on Saturday night, complete with a Ghanaian jazz band. The band was led by what I believe to be the world's oldest saxophone player, who also took the vocals for a few jazz standards. With the smooth jazz, the generous pile of lobster tails, and the steady, soft crashes of the ocean waves to accompany us, it is hard to complain about prices that are still mostly below what we'd pay on the prairies for anything comparable.
The ocean was the safest and most accessible we've seen because the beach is in a natural cove, and because a small island and rocky ledge provide for a breakwater (and scenic eye-candy!) just offshore. I woke up at five a.m. and watched the sunrise while the small village of Busua started to begin its work for the day. The small fishing village is pretty friendly, though I didn't venture too far at that time as I had read warnings about muggings and I like my camera. A couple of children who spoke no English, tagged along for my walk and insisted that I take pictures of them which, to be honest, I was happy to do because I'm quite shy about taking pictures of people here. It can often lead to conflict, an argument, or an intense negotiation. 
There is a lot more to explore in the area and we have already vowed to return to explore the village, and the surrounding area on foot. One can walk to the next village and there are even a couple of old forts within hiking distance. Again, we have been advised to take a local guide, as this is one of the few areas in Ghana where robbery is said to be somewhat frequent. We also want to spend some time in the twin-cities of Takoradi and Sekondi, bustling market towns that we passed through along the way. There are supposed to be a few good restaurants in the area so we'll keep you posted when we return.
Before I close this entry, I have to give specific mention to the African Rainbow Resort, which sits just before the gate to where we stayed, and will likely be where we will stay next time. The co-owner and operator, a Canadian and former resident of Maidstone, Saskatchewan, has put together the sort of retreat that conjures up dreams of Casablanca, or an Ernest Hemingway novel (minus, of course, the bull-fighting, and misogyny), complete with a rooftop bar that must have one of the nicest views in Ghana. We went there specifically for the pizza and we were not disappointed, as the consensus was that it was the best pizza we have yet to have in Ghana. While I'm sure everything tastes better with a saltwater breeze in your nostrils, this pizza could have stood up against some of the best that Corydon Avenue and Little Italy have to offer.
There is no doubt that we will return (and soon!) to Busua Beach as we have covered many sandy spots along the Ghanaian coast, and this is the hands-down winner. We are thinking about staying at the African Rainbow, where we can get day passes for the pool area at BBR. I would not be at all surprised as this becomes a traditional Land family monthly excursion and it will be near the top of the list of "Things We Miss About Ghana" after we return to Canada. Of course sitting on a beach sipping a Star and being misted by ocean spray, while watching the children frolic in the ocean, does not turn one's mind to Canada very often, if at all.
