Fort Sao Antonio, Axim

When I save the edited pictures for my blog, they go into a folder named Ghana Highlights, though in the case of such "attractions" as the colonial Fort Sao Antonio in Axim, the title doesn't feel exactly appropriate. The fort has been many things in its roughly five hundred year history, but most unforgettably it was a part of the capture and trade of millions upon millions of Africans throughout the continent. Lesser known and somewhat smaller than its slightly older cousin at Elmina, this historic building feels a little more quaint and undiscovered, and we had it entirely to ourselves, except for our remarkably well-informed and patient guide.

Built by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, the fort was soon captured by the Dutch and eventually fell into the hands of the British, before being returned to the people of Ghana just over fifty years ago (to coincide with Independence). This fort was by no means as extravagant (for the chosen few) as some of its larger counterparts, but its past was just as dark. We were shown the almost lightless, relatively airless cells where dozens of men, women and children were stacked into to await trips through the point of no return, if they lived that long. The guide kept reminding us that they would be locked away for "three good months," with the dead. In this case, the point of no return involved a drop into a lower chamber, followed by a march to the nearby lighthouse island, where they were picked up. Many were traded for salt or other goods provided at the fort and it was thought that most people had no idea where their relatives were going. It was often thought to be a better life--how mistaken they were.

The most significant point of the tour for Brontë (who is becoming a romantic well before either of her parents are ready to deal with!) was the story about the director of the fort who fell to his death after seeing a beautiful captive being marched across to the island. He is the buried in one of the fort courtyards, leaving only his tomb and his somewhat suspect story to remember him by. This is the view from the place where he was reputed to have fallen from.

I would have to say that Axim, for its part as a former port town and thriving fishing village, has fared reasonably well and is much prettier town than Elmina. There are several noteworthy colonial age buildings that stand out from atop the fort's walls, including an early bank and a hotel. I don't think tourists are nearly as common out this way so people were content to let us wander around pretty much undisturbed. Of course we had several dozen children and a few adults who offered to watch our lone vehicle in parking lot. While we did hand out a few cedis worth of "dashes" (and a pack of Mentos gum) when we were leaving, these were the only people around and we could almost always see the van from the roof, so it was more of gesture than a necessity.

The learning associated with visits to locales such as the forts is not easy, but it has been an important part of our family's cultural and historic learning while in Africa. I'm sure each of us will take away something different, but I have a much deeper sense of what it means to be a developing nation. That is to say, I know the legacy and damage done, and more about what exactly Ghana--and so many other African nations--are developing from. It was always an uphill climb and this nation has really only been at it, on its very own terms, for a little over fifty years. How long does it take to re-build a nation or a people? Canada might do well to ask such questions regarding our First Nations population.