When I save the edited pictures for my blog, they go into a folder named Ghana Highlights, though in the case of such "attractions" as the colonial Fort Sao Antonio in Axim, the title doesn't feel exactly appropriate. The fort has been many things in its roughly five hundred year history, but most unforgettably it was a part of the capture and trade of millions upon millions of Africans throughout the continent. Lesser known and somewhat smaller than its slightly older cousin at Elmina, this historic building feels a little more quaint and undiscovered, and we had it entirely to ourselves, except for our remarkably well-informed and patient guide.
Built by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, the fort was soon captured by the Dutch and eventually fell into the hands of the British, before being returned to the people of Ghana just over fifty years ago (to coincide with Independence). This fort was by no means as extravagant (for the chosen few) as some of its larger counterparts, but its past was just as dark. We were shown the almost lightless, relatively airless cells where dozens of men, women and children were stacked into to await trips through the point of no return, if they lived that long. The guide kept reminding us that they would be locked away for "three good months," with the dead. In this case, the point of no return involved a drop into a lower chamber, followed by a march to the nearby lighthouse island, where they were picked up. Many were traded for salt or other goods provided at the fort and it was thought that most people had no idea where their relatives were going. It was often thought to be a better life--how mistaken they were.
The most significant point of the tour for Brontë (who is becoming a romantic well before either of her parents are ready to deal with!) was the story about the director of the fort who fell to his death after seeing a beautiful captive being marched across to the island. He is the buried in one of the fort courtyards, leaving only his tomb and his somewhat suspect story to remember him by. This is the view from the place where he was reputed to have fallen from.
I would have to say that Axim, for its part as a former port town and thriving fishing village, has fared reasonably well and is much prettier town than Elmina. There are several noteworthy colonial age buildings that stand out from atop the fort's walls, including an early bank and a hotel. I don't think tourists are nearly as common out this way so people were content to let us wander around pretty much undisturbed. Of course we had several dozen children and a few adults who offered to watch our lone vehicle in parking lot. While we did hand out a few cedis worth of "dashes" (and a pack of Mentos gum) when we were leaving, these were the only people around and we could almost always see the van from the roof, so it was more of gesture than a necessity.
The learning associated with visits to locales such as the forts is not easy, but it has been an important part of our family's cultural and historic learning while in Africa. I'm sure each of us will take away something different, but I have a much deeper sense of what it means to be a developing nation. That is to say, I know the legacy and damage done, and more about what exactly Ghana--and so many other African nations--are developing from. It was always an uphill climb and this nation has really only been at it, on its very own terms, for a little over fifty years. How long does it take to re-build a nation or a people? Canada might do well to ask such questions regarding our First Nations population.
When I save the edited pictures for my blog, they go into a folder named Ghana Highlights, though in the case of such "attractions" as the colonial Fort Sao Antonio in Axim, the title doesn't feel exactly appropriate. The fort has been many things in its roughly five hundred year history, but most unforgettably it was a part of the capture and trade of millions upon millions of Africans throughout the continent. Lesser known and somewhat smaller than its slightly older cousin at Elmina, this historic building feels a little more quaint and undiscovered, and we had it entirely to ourselves, except for our remarkably well-informed and patient guide.
The lodge and dwellings were constructed by a European designer who has since moved on to other projects, leaving it to be managed by our ever-competent and attentive host, Timo. The open-air, world-inspired restaurant is the gathering place and centerpiece for what is an all-round perfectly planned paradise for the backpacker-made-good. We stayed in a hillside bungalow and have already booked to return, next time moving up in the world to a Bayside Suite that has an uninterrupted view of LouMoon's private bay. The prices are reasonable, given what is on offer, but there is an overall commitment to simplicity and conservation that is admirable and appealing, especially in Ghana. While this might turn the average tourist off, it is certainly a traveller's delight. The one big drawback for us was that self-catering was discouraged (and even forbidden) and it really added up with four children tallying "world restaurant" bills at every meal. We actually avoided the resort at lunch (breakfast was included and conspicuously ordinary, given the quality of the meals we paid for!) and just came for supper, usually accompanied by a staggering sunset across the sea.
As there are only about ten rooms in total at LouMoon, there is no such thing as busy, and there is always plenty to do. There is a full-sized volleyball court (on average, we're still a little small for such pursuits) and other outdoor games, and the sea kayaks were very popular with our clan. It was impossible to tire of playing in the sand, swimming, snorkeling, and beach combing, but we may have gone through a gallon or two of sunscreen as the Ghanian sun is force to be respected. The kids managed to complete various castles and sand sculptures while there, and depending on the weather and tides, the bay makes for a reasonably safe beach. We did, however, break the beach time up by managing a couple of day trips to the (relatively) nearby stilt village and an impressive fort in Axim (blogs to follow).
It would be difficult to make it as far as Axim and LouMoon, from Accra, for an overnight, but even two nights offers up one full day of heaven. We checked out other options in the area and are planning to visit Beyin Beach Resort for a couple of nights in the near future as well, having discovered it. We discovered it when registering at the guide station for Nzulezo and the Amansuri Wetlands. We had a memorable, inexpensive, kid-friendly lunch, something of a rarity in Ghana. It is relatively new and hasn't really "made" the Bradt guide as yet, but it should for the next edition! We'll let you know more about it after our stay!
Most of the pottery we've fond in Ghana is highly uniform, and strictly functional, so we haven't bought much aside from a couple of simple bowls and small pots. That is why we were pleasantly surprised to discover such a wealth and variety of completely unique pottery in the village of Fesi. It struck us that there must have been some outside influence somewhere along the line, as there was a decidedly Euro-western flair to the items on display. Any one of the objects could have been found at an artsy little Montreal boutique, or a Saturday market on Vancouver Island, or a garden shop in England, and I was trying to imagine some of the objects on the mud-sill of the average village window. 
The process was explained to us by one of the women who opened up for us. Due to the fact that it is often hot and dry, and because of the nature of the soil in West Africa, the clay that the potters buy from the local market is completely dry and very course. They basically have to pound it using a giant mortar and pestle until it is broken down into a finer consistency that can be mixed with water. Kilns consist of a square hole in the ground where the fire is built, over which the pieces are placed, and a small brick house is built around. Combine intense labour with intense heat, and you've got a recipe not only for pottery, but also for a day's work in the lives of many Ghanaians!
The cooperative is itself quite unique as it is made up of dozens of mothers, most of whom are apparently single parents, and all of whom have an aptitude for pottery. I think there are opportunities to volunteer with the collective, and some of their goods are sold online and abroad under a Fair Trade arrangement. In the end, we only bought a couple of small, functional items as the pottery seems to be quite brittle and we weren't sure we could trust the baggage handlers to be gentle with it! This is yet another example of eco-tourism gone very right and we are certainly glad we persevered.
