Fort Sao Antonio, Axim

When I save the edited pictures for my blog, they go into a folder named Ghana Highlights, though in the case of such "attractions" as the colonial Fort Sao Antonio in Axim, the title doesn't feel exactly appropriate. The fort has been many things in its roughly five hundred year history, but most unforgettably it was a part of the capture and trade of millions upon millions of Africans throughout the continent. Lesser known and somewhat smaller than its slightly older cousin at Elmina, this historic building feels a little more quaint and undiscovered, and we had it entirely to ourselves, except for our remarkably well-informed and patient guide.

Built by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, the fort was soon captured by the Dutch and eventually fell into the hands of the British, before being returned to the people of Ghana just over fifty years ago (to coincide with Independence). This fort was by no means as extravagant (for the chosen few) as some of its larger counterparts, but its past was just as dark. We were shown the almost lightless, relatively airless cells where dozens of men, women and children were stacked into to await trips through the point of no return, if they lived that long. The guide kept reminding us that they would be locked away for "three good months," with the dead. In this case, the point of no return involved a drop into a lower chamber, followed by a march to the nearby lighthouse island, where they were picked up. Many were traded for salt or other goods provided at the fort and it was thought that most people had no idea where their relatives were going. It was often thought to be a better life--how mistaken they were.

The most significant point of the tour for Brontë (who is becoming a romantic well before either of her parents are ready to deal with!) was the story about the director of the fort who fell to his death after seeing a beautiful captive being marched across to the island. He is the buried in one of the fort courtyards, leaving only his tomb and his somewhat suspect story to remember him by. This is the view from the place where he was reputed to have fallen from.

I would have to say that Axim, for its part as a former port town and thriving fishing village, has fared reasonably well and is much prettier town than Elmina. There are several noteworthy colonial age buildings that stand out from atop the fort's walls, including an early bank and a hotel. I don't think tourists are nearly as common out this way so people were content to let us wander around pretty much undisturbed. Of course we had several dozen children and a few adults who offered to watch our lone vehicle in parking lot. While we did hand out a few cedis worth of "dashes" (and a pack of Mentos gum) when we were leaving, these were the only people around and we could almost always see the van from the roof, so it was more of gesture than a necessity.

The learning associated with visits to locales such as the forts is not easy, but it has been an important part of our family's cultural and historic learning while in Africa. I'm sure each of us will take away something different, but I have a much deeper sense of what it means to be a developing nation. That is to say, I know the legacy and damage done, and more about what exactly Ghana--and so many other African nations--are developing from. It was always an uphill climb and this nation has really only been at it, on its very own terms, for a little over fifty years. How long does it take to re-build a nation or a people? Canada might do well to ask such questions regarding our First Nations population.

In Celebration of Ghanaian (Un)Spring!

Wow, I have really been remiss in updating my blog, but life, school and Easter Break (I was going to say "Spring Break" but Ghana has no spring!) intervened. Needless to say, we chose to celebrate spring--in honour of our still-thawing, winter-weary, damp, Canadian friends and family--the same way we celebrate everything here: by going to the beach! This time we outdid ourselves and booked into the LouMoon Lodge, a rustic, secluded traveller's retreat that occupies a stretch of what is reputedly one of the nicest lengths of beachfront in West Africa! We stayed for three dreamy nights and four sunny days at this tropical nirvana, and we were rewarded for it at every turn with what will undoubtedly stand out among our African experiences for some time to come.

The lodge and dwellings were constructed by a European designer who has since moved on to other projects, leaving it to be managed by our ever-competent and attentive host, Timo. The open-air, world-inspired restaurant is the gathering place and centerpiece for what is an all-round perfectly planned paradise for the backpacker-made-good. We stayed in a hillside bungalow and have already booked to return, next time moving up in the world to a Bayside Suite that has an uninterrupted view of LouMoon's private bay. The prices are reasonable, given what is on offer, but there is an overall commitment to simplicity and conservation that is admirable and appealing, especially in Ghana. While this might turn the average tourist off, it is certainly a traveller's delight. The one big drawback for us was that self-catering was discouraged (and even forbidden) and it really added up with four children tallying "world restaurant" bills at every meal. We actually avoided the resort at lunch (breakfast was included and conspicuously ordinary, given the quality of the meals we paid for!) and just came for supper, usually accompanied by a staggering sunset across the sea.

As there are only about ten rooms in total at LouMoon, there is no such thing as busy, and there is always plenty to do. There is a full-sized volleyball court (on average, we're still a little small for such pursuits) and other outdoor games, and the sea kayaks were very popular with our clan. It was impossible to tire of playing in the sand, swimming, snorkeling, and beach combing, but we may have gone through a gallon or two of sunscreen as the Ghanian sun is force to be respected. The kids managed to complete various castles and sand sculptures while there, and depending on the weather and tides, the bay makes for a reasonably safe beach. We did, however, break the beach time up by managing a couple of day trips to the (relatively) nearby stilt village and an impressive fort in Axim (blogs to follow).

It would be difficult to make it as far as Axim and LouMoon, from Accra, for an overnight, but even two nights offers up one full day of heaven. We checked out other options in the area and are planning to visit Beyin Beach Resort for a couple of nights in the near future as well, having discovered it. We discovered it when registering at the guide station for Nzulezo and the Amansuri Wetlands. We had a memorable, inexpensive, kid-friendly lunch, something of a rarity in Ghana. It is relatively new and hasn't really "made" the Bradt guide as yet, but it should for the next edition! We'll let you know more about it after our stay!

Pottery...Ghanaian Style

Akwaaba! One of our favourite things in the world is pottery (as some of dearest friends well know!), so when we read about the unique Kpando Women's Pottery Collective in the Volta region, we had to check it out. As with many things in Ghana, it took healthy doses of patience and perseverance first to find the Fesi pottery shed, and then to find someone around who actually had the key to the shop. We could see a number of flawed and unfinished pieces outside of the shop, and we were able to peek into the shop, and what we saw reinforced our resolve to stick it out. We were not disappointed once we finally got inside as there was wealth of beautiful, functional pottery filling every inch of available space. Of course we had to run a tag-team, high alert surveillance operation to keep Finn at bay while we took turns working our way through the collective's wares, but as always, it was a labour of (mostly) love.

Most of the pottery we've fond in Ghana is highly uniform, and strictly functional, so we haven't bought much aside from a couple of simple bowls and small pots. That is why we were pleasantly surprised to discover such a wealth and variety of completely unique pottery in the village of Fesi. It struck us that there must have been some outside influence somewhere along the line, as there was a decidedly Euro-western flair to the items on display. Any one of the objects could have been found at an artsy little Montreal boutique, or a Saturday market on Vancouver Island, or a garden shop in England, and I was trying to imagine some of the objects on the mud-sill of the average village window.

The process was explained to us by one of the women who opened up for us. Due to the fact that it is often hot and dry, and because of the nature of the soil in West Africa, the clay that the potters buy from the local market is completely dry and very course. They basically have to pound it using a giant mortar and pestle until it is broken down into a finer consistency that can be mixed with water. Kilns consist of a square hole in the ground where the fire is built, over which the pieces are placed, and a small brick house is built around. Combine intense labour with intense heat, and you've got a recipe not only for pottery, but also for a day's work in the lives of many Ghanaians!

The cooperative is itself quite unique as it is made up of dozens of mothers, most of whom are apparently single parents, and all of whom have an aptitude for pottery. I think there are opportunities to volunteer with the collective, and some of their goods are sold online and abroad under a Fair Trade arrangement. In the end, we only bought a couple of small, functional items as the pottery seems to be quite brittle and we weren't sure we could trust the baggage handlers to be gentle with it! This is yet another example of eco-tourism gone very right and we are certainly glad we persevered.

Larabanga and Beyond!

Akwaaba! Some of the oldest structures in Ghana are reputed to be the mud and stick mosques. Many of these religious buildings are found in the north of the country, where the greatest concentration of Muslims resides. Most of the remaining structures are still in use to varying degrees, and some are dated as far back as the thirteenth century. Though these dates are often disputed (some even suggest they should be earlier), one cannot deny their significance and architectural pedigree, particularly in the midst of villages that have few structures that are built to last. It is rarely possible to see the mosques from the roadside, and they are usually part of village tours, though there are degrees of legitimacy to these operations and it is possible to be left feeling that the hassle is not worth it. The cost is generally a small donation to the mosque's Imam and I wouldn't be surprised (based in part on the modest clothing and dwellings of the Imam's I met) if all of the money donated goes towards restoration and maintenance. There can be an extra charge for taking pictures, and in some cases no photography is allowed.

The small village of Larabanga, near Mole National Park, is best known for its mud-and-stick mosque which is believed to be the oldest in West Africa. Again, it is difficult to say for sure how old it is, though there is some agreement around a date in the fifteenth century. It is also home to a copy of the Qur'an that is said to be as old as the mosque! The mosque is a common site on web pages, brochures and in guide books, and it is probably the most famous building Ghana, at least from an outsider's perspective. We were toured around the village by a guide who was recommended by Moses, our Mognori village host. If I recall, I donated a few cedis to the Imam and a couple more to our guide, who toured us through the village and answered questions about village life. He left us with the impression that money given to him goes to community projects but one can never be sure.

These last two pictures were taken in Wa, where there are two mud-and-stick mosques in close proximity to one another. As you can see they are quite similar to Larabanga, with the main difference being that people are allowed into the mosque. In fact, I was encouraged to tunnel my way up to the roof, using a crude ladder pole, where I could see out over Wa. There were dozens of kids following me, laughing as I risked getting my hippo-sized arse stuck in a hole that seemed to be made for small goats (as evidenced by the number of goats on the roof and the number of turds I put my hand in on the way up). The newer and larger mosque can be seen in the distance. Although there are a number of mosques in Accra (none nearly as old), we did not know very much about the Islamic faith aside from the various (mostly derogatory) images offered to us via media. While it is said that the Muslims of Ghana are quite liberal in their views and practices, what struck us was how friendly and welcoming they were--sort of like almost every other Ghanaian we have met. I also found it a bit surprising that not only do Muslims and Christians co-exist, but they do so peacefully. There is a lesson here.

Kente!

One of the highlights of our recent trip up into the heart the Ghana's Volta Region was a quick pit stop in the traditional kente weaving village of Tafi Abuipe. The cloth from this very small village, nestled between two major roads, is shipped worldwide and is definitely the centre of this life in this bustling West African village. When we turned off of the highway, we weren't sure what we were in for, but as usual, we were rewarded with a worthwhile and stimulating learning experience (not to mention a few lengths of beautiful kente) that will be with us for some time to come.

This village runs as an eco-tourism project and when we arrived we were greeted by a young man who was to be our host and tour guide. He is one of the young people who--because of the profits from kente--was able to go to senior secondary school outside of the village, and as a result he has one of the more important jobs in the community. He explained the process as he toured us around and we met several of the young weavers. It was a Saturday morning so all of the looms were humming. Each symbol or pattern has traditional significance and there seemed an infinite number of patterns. Tools and looms were all hand carved and the speed with which the weavers worked, while maintaining intricate, repeating patterns was truly remarkable. They only every weave stretches of kente that are about four inches wide, so larger pieces of cloth are stitched together for clothing and household use.

Basically, each village family has as many looms as it can sustain and the covered workshops are filled with family members. We were obviously surprised to learn (okay, not that surprised) that children start in the family business at just seven years old. At that age they begin doing small supportive tasks like hauling and spooling thread, and watching their older siblings in a sort of an apprenticeship. They do, thankfully, still go to school full time and I expect that most of them flock to class as the weaving looks to be quite tedious. As Bronte is eight, I think she most felt the impact of seeing these children working at her age, instead of spending free time playing or (a-hem) travelling around Ghana with her family. It would be easy for us to be critical or horrified, but it is a family business like any other and I was immediately put in mind of the family farm, where child labour is both necessary and character-building.

I have seen kente cloth in shops around not only Accra, but also in many other places. I'm certain I've seen it in the Forks, or other such markets in Canada. Until now I really never understood its true significance. It is yet another possibility for those who wish to spend their money mindfully, with sustainable intention. As I have often said to students, every dollar counts when it comes to the future and well-being of the planet. To be honest, I have no idea what we will do with the stunning, but impractical lengths of colour we purchased, but I suspect they've already done their most important work whether they end up on a wall or not. This message was brought to you by Tafi Abuipe Kente-Weaving Village. They thank you for your support!

Beads, Beads, and More Beads

In Ghana, there is a rich history within the manufacture and trade of traditional and contemporary jewelry. While the Ashanti Region is best known for jewelry made of gold (much of it is brass today), the Eastern Region lays claim to beads, particularly those made from glass. We have passed this little annex of the Cedi Bead factory several times, and decided it was time we stopped. We could certainly find beads in Accra, but this shop is very close to the source of production, and dollars spent close to the communities producing goods tend to go even further than NGO money seems to.

We have at least one friend who makes jewelry, so we had fun doing a bit of a shop for her, and the kids wanted to buy bracelets to give as gifts to friends. Of course we already love shopping in West Africa and since we have have more baggage space on the way back than we had on the way here, we're not shy about making purchases. A large string of beads was between 1 and 4 cedis, depending on the time invested and the size of the beads. All of the beads are made manually, many are hand painted, evidenced by the fact that no two beads are alike! They have a binder explaining the process and the person in the shop was reasonably knowledgeable but the bead factory is quite close by, so I'm sure we'll venture there as well at some point. There are also a couple of once-a-week bead trading markets that are supposed to be rather remarkable, so we'll try to hit one of those as well, though they tend to happen during the week.

The Long and Winding Road to Wli Falls

As our year in Ghana begins to draw to a close, we are trying to check off a few last destinations before we depart. This past weekend we loaded up the kids and we drove to Ghana's Wli (the Ghanaian pronunciation of Wli is actually vlee so the Beverly Hillbillies allusion works), said to be West Africa's tallest waterfall. Like many things in Ghana, this "fact" comes straight from the unsubstantiated authority of the guides at the falls, who have seldom, if ever, been to another waterfall in West Africa. As the falls are situated amidst the elevated forests of the mountains (that partly form the border with Togo), I think tallest is referring more to their elevation above sea level than to the distance from top to bottom. Whatever the case, grand claims cannot diminish or heighten the awesome spectacle of nature that is the Wli Falls.

The drive to Wli took several hours (including several stops and shops) and took us through the beautiful hills of the Volta Region. We stayed at a decent hotel in Hohoe, and made our way to the falls in the morning. The trek into the falls took about forty-five minutes in (uphill) and more like thirty minutes out (downhill and we were hungry). The hike in reminded us of many we had taken on Vancouver Island, and while the pathway steadily climbs, it is relatively cool, breezy, and clean. We crossed nine bridges along the ample footpath on the way up. The counting kept Materia more than amused while Finn kept himself and his parents thoroughly occupied by threatening to fall into the water through or off of those rather dodgily constructed bridges.

We deliberately tried to get to the falls before the rainy season sets in as the power and the spray of the falls makes it more difficult to hike in or even get close to the falls. We did not brave the popular hike to the upper falls as it is much more demanding and we were not up for carrying the two little ones the distance. Apparently there is also a pool at the top that is beautiful for swimming. The area at the base of the falls was one of the first where we actually imagined ourselves having a picnic and we were invited to join a Ghanaian family that had hauled in lunch with them. The kids played in the shallows at the base of the falls and explored the rocky pathways leading to the mountain wall, and we all enjoyed the fresh, misty spray from the falls. This is one of Ghana's most popular tourist destinations, and it is pretty obvious as you drive through the village responsible and it is easy to see why!